November 19, the long-awaited party of the magazine Grazia took place in the restaurant MOSAIK The St. Regis Moscow Nikolskaya. #GRAZIANISTA Party has launched a new season of the traditional competition of Russian designers and presentations of fashionable novelties in the field of perfumery, cosmetics, accessories and clothing. Company Wild Orchid also presented its new collection of underwear. Of course, I could not miss the opportunity to highlight the trends to my readers. Natalia Skvortcova, designer of Wild Orchid in their own production, told me how the locomotive of domestic production operates, what is fashionable and what you should know choosing a bra.
Hello, Natalia. Nice to meet you. To begin, I would like you to tell us what your company is look like?
Our company has three brands in three different directions: Defile, Wild Orchid, Bustier. Defile — relatively cheap lingerie, Bustier — the average price category, and Wild Orchid is a luxury things. I am the only designer of Wild Orchid, we have two designers for Bustier and two in Defile, because there is a lot of work. I lead our two brands — Savoia and Beatrice. We have a huge development team, including designers, product managers, etc. We are not far from Moscow.
And how much time it takes to design bra and launch it in shops?
More than half of the year. Force majeure can happens sometimes, so we are laying the extra time. It’s about a year with all the presentations, agreements with designers, seamstresses, etc. We do everything from scratch: design, invent, manufacture. This is very interesting, that is more than purchases abroad. This is an unusual, complex, but very interesting niche. When we started, it was difficult, because label «Made in Russia» frightened people, accustomed to buy Dior, Dolce & Gabbana and others. Now our underwear has reached a new level, because we offer customers quality, fit, handling and comfort. Everything is done with the soul and love. We have not already looked at Europe, we go forward.
It so pleasant that there is a manufacturing in Russia, at least something is done. There is a reason for pride. I think many women have already moved away from the stereotypes of Russian production. What kind of fabric do you use?
No doubt, fabrics with the addition of elastane are used to lingerie most of all. I recommend to wear cotton underwear for everyday use, but that cotton should have about 5-10% of elastane, it will provide a good wearing of underwear. Underwear with the addition of elastane adjoins to a body better, looks better. All the materials used to make underwear for Wild Orchid are purchased in Europe. Fabrics are severely tested to resistance and the possibility of allergy. Some fabrics are processed so that the weaving makes anti-cellulite effects. Fabric with the addition of microfiber or cotton is the most comfortable underwear. The fibers of natural origin (eg, hemp and bamboo) are sometimes added to the microfiber. Thus underwear becomes more pleasant to the body. There is also material that is made of cotton from the body side, and the front side is an elastic microfiber. Silk and expensive French lace are often (mainly in the luxury underwear) used. Lace is also done with the addition of natural ingredients, ideally with elastane. Things made entirely of natural non-elastic lace are very beautiful, enjoyable to the body, but they are not convenient in daily wear. This option is better to leave for the evening. Elastic lace is comfortable for everyday using, and the woman will feel better.
By the way, about the lace. The government wanted to ban the lace because of the harm to women’s health. What is about the situation in Russia?
The production of synthetic lace panties is banned. They tried to forbid all producing of the lace panties, but then a correction was made. The Gusset should be processed with the cotton. It should be 100% cotton without elastane. If the panties have more than 10% of cotton in the composition, they correspond to the standards.
Many girls are interested in the question: how to choose lingerie?
Of course, it all depends on the structure of of the chest, its volume and fullness are two main parameters. Comfort wearing of underwear depends on the proper selection, on the correct form of the bra.
Please, tell us about the new models presented in the collection.
Bra on the stature due to bones and round shape will gather the chest, regardless of the push-up. If you have something to put on it, you can chose balconette. It will look great, if you have full breasts. Cups are all-purpose, if you need you can insert pads and chest will look lush. However I would not advise to wear such a bra every day. With regard to the large size of the breast, I would advise bra without the stature since there is no need to gather chest more.
What is important to have in the wardrobe for every day?
I suggest our new development for everyday wear. It is a soft cup, it is very nice and provides good support. Memory foam is a material that clings the chest in a special way, it’s like foam that wraps around the chest. Under heating this material takes the form of the chest, which is very comfortable, when you wear tight things. No one see any seams and other things.It will be comfortable to wear such a bra all day, and it will keep the shape due to the bones, and it will be very convenient. I also advise lingerie completely without a frame. For example, a bra with laminate, which is covered with the cotton. At the expense of the laminate bra pushes the chest up. There are no bones nothing will stop and dig into. Bra without a frame will be convenient to everyone and to any breasts (both small and large) due to the fact that there is a laminate.
What is fashionable in terms of panties?
As for the panties, the classical form is a panties for every day, which should be in the wardrobe of every girl. The second model is the replacement of strings. Tango — a closed strings, they are also opened hipsters panties — shorts . They open the buttocks, but do not look at this vulgar. This is what is fashionable in forms.
What dictates the fashion on the lingerie?
If we talk about fashion on the lingerie, the latest trend is a natural form of the breast. At one time Wonderbra was fashionable. It appeared in the ’90s as a triple push-up, it caused a furore, and now this trend is gone, replaced with the natural form. Soft cups are relevant, triangles provide good support even for large breasts. Customers who always bought push-ups are now beginning to buy soft cup. Due to the special design, it pushes the chest up. At the same time it is fashionable and stylish.
Thank you for the interview! Good luck and success!
Photos: Daria Ratushina